Once 3 leaves have grown on the branch, cut it back to a point immediately distal to the second leaf from the trunk. That's important. Gave it a go with the air layering. As the leaves/streams add photosynthate/water to the trunk/river, it gets thicker/wider/deeper. Lots to consider. Too, plants have natural rhythms, which is why it's better to do any heavy work in summer when the plant's vitality and ability to turn the sun's energy into food is at/near their peak. I would like to piggyback on this thread as I am seeing similar behavior in my FLF. Good roots are one of the most important feature of show quality trees. Once you start getting branching, you should religiously pinch those branches back to 2 leaves as soon as the branch develops 3 mature leaves. Strike a dramatic chord in a minimalist scene or a country note in a rustic setting — fiddleleaf fig plants harmonize with any style, A full form and delicious fruits make this Middle Eastern tree a favorite in gardens around the world, Make a unique, unexpected statement in any space with this precious metallic finish, Confused about soil moisture, the best time to water and what watering device to use? Al - fads come and go, but F lyrata has been riding atop a wave of popularity for at least the last 3 years, maybe more. I also cut both because they were getting too tall, and I have a question. OK. Thanks, Al. Добрый день. The longer the tree grows without restraint or control over how energy flows in the plant, the more difficult it will be to bring the tree back under control. OTOH, I've heard they don't like too much room and to wait for roots to stick out the bottom before repotting. It is a genetic trait of plants in the mulberry family (Moraceae) that each successive leaf on any given branch will be larger at maturity than the preceding leaf on that branch. Trim the bottom of the stem by making a slanting cut just below a growth node. This is especially true when using the high-P(hosphorous) fertilizers disguised as 'houseplant food'. I'd probably prune the ht back to just below the ht of the window it's in front of. North, south, east, or west? Hello Tapla:I followed your instructions and just separated my 2 FLF. FWIW - the predicament you find yourself in is the result of the tree receiving insufficient light. Fiddle leaf figs come with quite a learning curve, so sometimes we need to see how resilient they can actually be. Push them into the soil; water when the meter is showing about 1/2 way between "dry" and "moist"; if you're using a wooden probe, run it between your fingers after pulling it from the soil, it should feel just slightly damp.Then when you water, always water enough to get a run-off from the drainage holes. Will it be ok? This guide can help, Ripe for some citrus fertilizer know-how? I took a chance on it because it’s rough looking. It depends on how healthy the tree is, and in part, how far apart the leaves behind the pruning cut are; whereas, if you were making the cut in the summer, you could be pretty sure you'd get branching from leaf axils further down the trunk. I recommend cutting a stem with two or three leaves (no more than that or … I was wondering if you could help me. If it’s humid, wait before watering! Whether or not you should defoliate sort of pivots on geography, and whether or not you should prune depends somewhat on geography, but also on what you envision the plant looking like prospectively. Hi! I figured that would not be good. Thank you AI & the ficus wrangler..i’ve followed your advice and moved the plant to a spot where it receives more light..i’ve also started to check the soil before watering..i use a stick for this..i push it deep into the pot and take it out and if it feels slightly dry i water it thoroughly..in addition to this i try to mist the plant every day to provide humidity..hope this works for my plant.. i also wanted to ask if i should cut away those brown patches since they have creeped in a little as you can see in the before and current picture.. My question off thread - but, on topic, perhaps. IOW, once they wilt, their attitude usually changes at least partially so that droopy appearance becomes a permanent thing. Buying Guide for the Best Faux Fiddle Leaf Fig Plant. Like I said before, you can just leave it, then cut back the dead parts in the spring. How It Happens, and When and How to Prune, New This Week: How to Punch Up a Modern White Living Room, Container Garden Basics: How and When to Water Potted Plants, Rubber Tree Light Colored Leaf Spots & Curling. We have a covered deck where the FLF stays during warm months. Allowing a container to sit in the effluent in a collection saucer completely negates any potential positive inherent in flushing the soil when we water. Don't pull them off - snip with a scissors close to the stem. You saw the growth explosion on the tree I pruned back to only a few leaves (above)? Mine grew normally and they're healthy, they just now look funny in the damaged area. One of my figs (the younger one) really began growing rapidly from the center stalk. * Let's look at the tree in it's defoliated state before you decide what to do about pruning it. This represents the difference between a plant surviving at the outer limits of what it's programmed (genetically) to tolerate and one that's growing in its 'sweet spot'. Hi, Chanice. I've had one for about a year and a half, and one for almost a year. I'm not sure how much effort you're willing to make for your plants, but here is the plan I would try to have implemented by Christmas. It isn't my intent to just toss out a bunch of generalizations and expect you to sink or swim. Now that we got the correct watering down; of course all the leaves with brown spots continue to fall off. Helllooo! As the leaf unfurls, the sheath dies, which is what you are seeing. Dip the end in water and rooting hormone, then plant about four inches deep in fresh soil. ( It’s 67cm / 26 inch and is currently under stress with brown edges and rusting.). Learning to work with the tree's annual growth cycle is easier on the tree and makes the grower feel better about making the allowance. Instead, small cuts or ‘notches’ are made up and down the stem or trunk to encourage new growth to form further down the plant. Hi all! I haven’t watered it either because the top inch is still slightly moist. • Make your cuts at least an inch away from the main trunk. Should I pot up? I’d like for the plant to eventually have this sort of shape. Next, place your dominant hand under the leaf as close to the stem as possible. I’m in SA, Aus so its winter here. No results from notching yet which was done about 10 days ago. Our only job as growers is the recognize and eliminate to the greatest degree possible those cultural influences that limit our plants. My fiddle leaf fig as you can see in the photo above was growing strait up on one branch or trunk, I had seen photos of other trees growing different branches and had even tried notching (where you make a notch with a sharp knife in the trunk) to get my tree to branch but nothing had worked. Prune the next branch moving right back to 2 leaves. bianca - just wanted to say a word about mites. So, I took a week vacation in June, came back and my FLF had dried up, with most leaves brown, crispy and on the floor. Thank you for your help. The soil only needs to be slightly moist or damp. Was as wondering what I should be doing to promote new growth once we’re clear from any more cold. Wife and I were given this FLF in December of last year. I could move the plants outside for the summer under the porch overhang if that would help. I would deeply appreciate any advice. Some of the earlier leaves browned in spots and fell off of the tree. Today I went to check the soil and noticed a yellow mushroom growing from the bottom of the nursery pot. It was definitely being over watered. By all means, prune the bush back. On the other hand, fiddle leaf fig trees are single mature fiddle leaf figs. I also haven't been fertilizing that much this winter. I moved from St. Pete to Dunnellon 2 years ago, and we've had, I think, 3 periods of below freezing, and one stretch of maybe 3 nights where the temps were down to the mid- to low 20's. Hi thank you! This was my case and it looked exactly the same as yours. You’ll need to give the plant more light if you want it to grow the way to describe. The new growth looks pretty bad and the leaves never got any bigger. Pruning will stiffen the trunk in the same way that shortening a long flexible stick eliminates much of its flexibility, but pruning is a half-measure compared to providing better light. The finger test usually works for a lot of gardeners, but personally, my soil moisture meter saved my plants’ lives at a time when I had no clue what I was doing. There is really great info on this thread but I need more specifics for my situation. It's 9ft tall and glorious. In fall, you cut off all the desirable short internodes, all the way back to the long internodes. This plant lives about 3 feet away from a S/SW window and doesn't receive any direct sunlight. Any tips on the best way to accomplish this? Someone suggested edema perhaps from non optimal temperatures at Home Depot / transport. I'll try that. What Are the Differences Between Fiddle Leaf Fig Tree vs Bush . But here's the problem. I’d love to get a game plan for the next growth cycle! All you can do is wait to see how the plant responds, but I wouldn't remove the partially green leaves (more than 25% green) unless you absolutely can't stand looking at them. I am able to get them to grow wonderful roots in water in rooting hormone. Moved into a new place and found a large FL tree in the backyard. You'd be removing ALL the leggy growth from winter. I am new to the site. Since there is green periderm tissue that can also suffer sunburn and death there from, you need to acclimate the tree to anything more than dappled or open shade. The new leaves growing off the trunk are actually new branches if they're occurring immediately distal to the bundle scars where the now dead and gone leaves had been attached. Many of these problems take care of themselves given some time. What happened is technically called photo-oxidation and commonly called sunburn. Your do-over branch (lowest on the trunk) was supposed to be left long and tied to the main trunk so it's closer to vertical; this, in preparation for chopping the heavier trunk immediately above what was to be the new leader. * Fertilize when you see the tree back-budding and pushing new growth. Removing excess leaves will reduce the stress on the cuttings to retain water. Al, S-scout - If you're still around - ficus leaves come into being wrapped in a leaf sheath. Pruning Your Fiddle Leaf Fig. Thanks for any advice you may have for me! 17 new branches (trunks) at the base of the plant is a LOT of branches, so at a minimum, there should be a considerable amount of thinning in your plants near future. It's hard to tell from your pics if that's your problem, but the "brown spots" that mites leave behind are very tiny and yellowish, and there's LOTS of them. I read a lot about maybe it was watering or cold drafts and thought I tried everything! The fix is to put a fan in the room on a timer, so the fan turns on when light is brightest. If your leaves look yellow, it means that your plant is overwatered. The guide to purchasing the best fake fiddle leaf fig tree is right here: Leaves. Help finding the right light in my apartment for plants! Ballast can eliminate almost ALL of the excess water a soil can hold, if it's done right and you understand what you're doing. 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